MyWeku

….That African fashion and African inspired fashion is gaining immensely in popularity is no surprise. The most influential African blogs and websites continue to promote this trend in world fashion. However, what is less documented or discussed is the slow but strong emergence of African Street Fashion. This is not fashion gleaned from catwalks, created in studios or designed by “professional” designers. Most of the cloths are not even available in shops or at least not in the combinations we see.

There is a strong grassroots desire across urban areas and cities to create “alternative” clothing styles by the youth, some but not all inspired by not only eras gone by, but by arguably non-African fashion styles. The dress sense of funky African Music stars coupled with the proliferation of American Hip Hop and a bizarre love for “geek” chic, has all contributed to the style of street fashion seen today across admittedly a small but, influential groups of young fashionistas dotted across the continent.

Some may indeed question whether these fashion styles are authentically African just as others may question whether the emergence and increasingly widespread use of African prints by European street fashionistas is any more European. The point is that, as the youth try to differentiate themselves from mainstream fashion styles they tend to cross over across continents in pursuit of inspiration and a desire to differentiate their fashion styles amongst their local cohorts.

In the last couple of years, there have been tentative attempts to look more closely into the various facets of African street fashion. Threadbard, a fashion blog curated by two academics, made mention of a post called “don’t sleep on Africa” on livejournal.com. The post highlights the lack of African street fashion on the major fashion circuits and provides a rather comprehensive collection of photos of mostly but not exclusively of South African street fashionistas. Nontsikelelo Veleko and Chris Saunders, both South Africans, have done more than most in photographing this phenomenon in South Africa.

South Africa

In the Congo, the Sapeurs, otherwise known as the Gentlemen of Bacongo, a fashion sub cultural group now widely known and famous around the globe (mainly thanks to the photographer Daniele Tamagni) for their special brand of stylish clothing, have captured the imagination of those who live around them and beyond. Against the backdrop of their physical environment, the Gentlemen of Bacongo, personify street fashion to the extreme – fashion that draws attention and clearly identifies them as a “group”. Goths, Hippies, Japanese punk Lolitas and Hip Hop enthusiasts may all have their distinct styles, but none stand out like the Gentlemen of Bacongo.

Gentleman of Bacongo – Congo

The colours, vibrancy, eclectic individual expressions are undeniable and bear testament to the influence of traditional African patterns and prints and a new sense of pride and confidence amongst the youth. However, it is evident that these fashion styles also do their utmost in not only personifying globalisation but making a strong statement about the reach and transferability of global street fashion trends. It is imperative to note that the term “African Street Fashion” is problematic. Can a whole continent be accurately characterised with a fashion sub culture? Do those who may claim a “lack” of authenticity perhaps based on a curios lack of use of African fabrics such as Kente, aso oke, mud cloth, bark cloth and kitenge have a valid point?

 Photographer: Nontsikelelo Veleko (South Africa)

 

  

 

Below – “The Gentlemen of Bacongo” in Congo by photographer Daniele Tamagni